Nov 1, 2010 - Strictly follow all instructions to avoid an accident, damage to your vessel, personal injury, or death. See www.harken.com for additional safety. Jun 1, 2011 - A final tip comes from Harken's Technical Manager, Grant Pellew. Most well known furlers come with very detailed manuals, which, if studied. Harken Furling Systems & Parts The days of hanking on sails are long gone, so if you are still struggling on deck, it’s time to join the 21st century by investing in a quality Harken roller furling system. Whether you are looking for a cruising furler, a top down furler or an underdeck furling option – Harken roller furling has you covered with options for just about any boat. Fisheries Supply offers a wide selection of Harken furler parts as well as complete Harken furler units – so shop today and never struggle with your sails again. To see all of our Harken products, click. A well-installed furler, like the Furlex model aboard this Hanse, is an indispensable item aboard any larger cruising boat Photo courtesy of Hanse The boat’s just gone back into the water after her winter storage, and you’re getting ready for a sail. The jib has run nicely up the headsail foil, and you’ve teased out the creases with an extra turn on the halyard. Now it’s time to furl, so you can get the main on. Unfortunately, when you haul on the jib furling line, nothing happens. You haul a little harder. Still nothing. With one last heave, the sail comes in a turn or so, then jams solid. There’s also a noise like ball bearings bouncing on the foredeck, which proves upon further investigation, to be just that: ball bearings bouncing on the foredeck. With a sigh, you realize it’s time to replace your aged furler, for which spare parts don’t even exist anymore. Along these same lines, you need to check that any unit you’re interested in is compatible with your boat’s recommended forestay diameter (especially if you’re keeping your existing stay), which is typically 8mm-10mm or 5/16in-3/8in in this LOA range. Also be sure to check that it will accept your existing clevis pin for easy attachment to the chainplates. You don’t want to be stuck drilling out the chainplates to accept a bigger pin. Finally, if your forestay has a turnbuckle, make sure that your chosen furler can accommodate it—Profurl, for instance, only includes a turnbuckle cylinder with its units as an extra item. Note that if you are a cruising sailor with a heavier-displacement boat and aspirations to cross oceans, you might be tempted to choose a size above what is recommended. However, most manufacturers counsel against this. “The problem with going with a larger furler is mismatches for the clevis pin size,” says Harken’s Wilfert. “It won’t mate up with the boat correctly.” Also be aware that most manufacturers spec their own toggles to sit between the boat’s chainplate and the turnbuckle or headstay terminal, and while these are a necessary part of the setup, it inevitably lengthens things by a few inches. “The question is whether your turnbuckle can shorten up enough to compensate,” Wilfert says. If the answer is no, you’re looking at a new headstay. Necessity aside, another reason you might want to shorten the stay would be if your chainplate is located in tight by the pulpit or anchor. In this case, you might want to raise the drum of the furling unit off the deck a little to offer more clearance. Most brands offer custom fittings to do just this by means of a chainplate extender or stainless steel strap. Either way, if you plan to install the system yourself you will need an accurate measurement of your headstay length. Depending on the unit, you then apply a series of deductions to compensate for the extra toggles, etc., to get your new wire length. Additional deductions will then be necessary to work out the required length of the luff foil, which usually has to be cut to size. Only Facnor avoids this stress by using a telescopic bottom foil. Note how the halyard cleats off on this CDI furler Bells and whistles Once you’ve got the basics taken care of, your final choice of furler will likely depend on your budget and the unique features offered by each model or brand. Some manufacturers, for example, offer the option of both a simpler system—like the Harken ESP or Facnor’s LS—or a higher-performance system—like Harken’s Mk IV or Facnor’s LX or RX (racing) ranges. If that’s the case, the simpler systems are typically manufactured without such extras as a removable drum, which can be a useful feature for racers concerned about switching out to faster racing canvas and lighter weight. They also have a single luff groove in their foil extrusions, as opposed to two, making it harder to rig a double headsail for long downwind passages or effect seamless headsail changes when racing. Other more performance-oriented types that racing sailors, in particular, might be interested in include belowdeck furlers, like those included in Harken’s MkIV line or the Furlex TD—in which the entire furling drum is located beneath the foredeck—and low-profile webbing-based systems, like the Facnor FlatDeck—in which webbing is used in place of a traditional furling line. In both cases, the advantages include the fact that less of the luff length is given over to the furler, thereby maximizing sail area.
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